Epicenter: Portsmouth

To celebrate the end of the world, here is a story I wrote years ago.

Portsmouth photo: Credit: dok1, flickr

I know something you don’t.

The world will end soon.  I know, as I sit here in my pink housecoat on the porch of my small home here in Portsmouth, Ohio.  The world will end soon, and it all starts in Portsmouth.  Do not doubt me.  You do not live here.  You have not seen the signs I have seen.

I had never noticed billboards until recently.  Nor did I ever view billboards as societal barometers.  Now I see that the billboards are indicative of changing times. The Red Cross has been buying up billboards. “We’ll be there,” the billboards predict. Sounds prescient to me.  And now there are more billboards for hospitals than car dealerships. This means something.

I put my Chevy up for sale today in preparation for whatever will come next. Better sell the car while someone will still be around to buy it.  I know this is best.

Credit: Alejandro Hernandez, flickr

The noise from the children in the playground catty-corner from me grows everyday. I used to relax out on the porch with my husband,  Nowadays, those sh** spawn of Satan sit on those shapless bouncing things and scream, scream, scream.  I believe the increase in screaming is another indicator that this is the chosen spot.

Maybe, like dogs, children’s behavior can forecast some strange event. Or maybe those cackling kids are the cause of all.  This.  Maybe Mother Nature wants to shut them up.  Are they the cause or just a symptom? Chicken? Egg? If I were to begin the destruction of all humanity, I, too, would start here.

Please don’t tell anyone this next part.  I spray painted the word “EPICENTER” in the intersection of West & Rhodes, right by that playground.  I can’t say that people have noticed. Most in these parts can’t pronounce “epicenter”, nor define it. If a policeman encountered this road art, he wouldn’t trace it to me. Who would suspect a 68-year old retired school teacher of graffiti?

God sat me here, in my pink housecoat in Portsmouth, for a purpose. I think I know it now. I must warn you that our time is coming. If you lived here, you would understand too.  The end is near. I think I shall post this story on my fridge.  Then, when they are cleaning up, they will realize what a wise old woman I was.

Today, I shall write an op-ed piece for the New York Times. They will not print it of course. They will pass it around the newsroom and laugh. They will post it on their bulletin boards and laugh. At my expense, they will laugh. But they will not forget that silly old woman in Portsmouth. No, they will not forget that silly old woman in Portsmouth when the lead story in the Times begins with PORTSMOUTH, OH. (AP) -

Then those same cynics will look up from their cluttered desks (if real life newsrooms are like the ones on the sitcoms) at the letter I wrote (still posted above their desks), and boot up their computers to try to find my phone number so they can call me. And the police will want to interview me too. How could I know of impending disaster unless I was the cause, they will ask. I fear that I will not be there to answer.  Perhaps I will make enough money on the sale of my car to take a trip to someplace faraway.  Perhaps I shall spend my waning years traveling.

So far I have remained hushed about the upcoming events. I have left them only subtle clues, which will be far too difficult to trace to me.  Take the spray paint, for instance. I drove over to the Wal Mart in Huntington, where I purchased 2 cans of spray paint, 3 cases of Diet Coke, some of those chocolate covered graham cookies, and a box of adult diapers. I was afraid the clerk would strike up some conversation if I just bought the paint. “You workin’ on a project?” she might ask. So I added the Diet Coke and diapers. Store clerks don’t make conversation when you buy diapers for grownups.  “Loose stool?” is not polite conversation around these parts. And I think Heloise said I can use them to clean up spills in the kitchen.

I have begun collecting magazine articles about the nuclear testing back in the 50’s, when the government would detonate bombs in the Nevada desert. People would put on their sunglasses, drive out and watch. Nothing like subtracting a dozen years off your life in a dozen seconds.  But those who are still alive can tell some stories, I imagine.  I have become fascinated.  I should visit the isle of Bikini and the Nevada Test Site on my travels.

I must apologize for my tangents.  I just want to know what it’s like to be t the epicenter—to be there when the bomb goes off, when the earthquake starts, when the volcano blows.  Each one is different, but each one is similar.  No one would waste a bomb on Portsmouth. There is no Ohio River Valley fault line (at least not that I know about).  But it will begin here—from above or below.  I know it will begin here.  I shall plan my getaway soon.

This is the way the world ends.
This is the way the world ends.
This is the way the world ends.
With a bang in Portsmouth, Ohio.

Please don’t say I didn’t tell you.

Share
Posted in fiction | Tagged , , | Comments Off

Lion Attacks and Safaris

Travel Book Review:  Man Eaters Motel (and other stops on the railway to nowhere:  an East African Traveler’s Nightbook) by Denis Boyles (1991)

I love reading books about Africa (see previous review).  I know better than to think the whole continent is the same, but the history is fascinating.  Colonialism.  Exported slave labor.  Imported Indian labor.  Wars for independence.  Civil wars.  Malaria.  Lion attacks.  A lot has happened there.

I recently uncovered an older (1991) book Man Eaters Motel about travel through Kenya.  Continue reading

Share
Posted in Book Review | Tagged , , | Leave a comment

A Few Bad Meals

A suspicious AmsterdamDonut

I fear eating in popular tourist cities.  I feel I will have a bad meal at an expensive price.  I feel they will charge me for things like napkins and table water.  Basically, I feel like I will be ripped off.  I feel this way in New York, London, Paris, Venice, and wherever horse drawn carriages line up for tourists, like central Vienna.

This fear started on my first visit to Amsterdam.  The back streets were lined with touts on the curbs inviting you into their greasy spoon dives for suspicious falafel.  How old the falafel was, I do not know.  But I ate it anyway.  Later, I tried a delicious looking donut from a store window.  It’s Barbie-pink frosting called to me, Continue reading

Share
Posted in Essence of Travel | Tagged , , , , | Leave a comment

My favorite Spam

Painted building, Christiania, Copenhagen

Having a blog means you get more spam comments than real comments.  I have reposted my favorite spam comment below.  First, it starts with “Tex!”  Don’t all statements sound better when they start with “Tex!”?

Reading this delightful “comment” reminds me of 3 things:
1) I need to keep on righting,
2) I must retell the story of the pizza on the heater, and
3) I am awesmowe Continue reading

Share
Posted in Essence of Travel | Tagged , | 1 Comment

I may understand when I am a middle-aged woman

Travel book review of Without Reservations:  Travels of an independent woman by Alice Steinbach

Targeted at middle-aged women, this is a pleasant, but not remarkable, memoir of a single woman traveling in Europe.

Quite frankly, the target audience for this book is defined by the subtitle:  travels of an independent woman.   Continue reading

Share
Posted in Book Review, Travel Books | Tagged , , | Leave a comment

Too much about the tropics?

A review of the travel book  Tales from the Torrid Zone:  Travels in the deep tropics by Alexander Frater (2007).

Alexander Frater was born in a missionary family in what it is today Vanuatu, so his stories are intertwined with his family’s history as missionaries and preachers in the islands.  Tales from the Torrid Zone is a look at the tropics (history, geography, and ethnography) combined with a personal family history, so its depth exceeds that of other South Seas travel books (like Getting Stoned With Savages). While Fraser explores all the tropics, the book is deeply dependent on the remote islands of the South Seas.  The stories can be eye-opening, like the voyage to Pentecost Island where “bungee jumping” (actually “land diving”) originated.  Locals jump from rickety towers with vines tied to their legs to ensure a bountiful yam harvest, Continue reading

Share
Posted in Book Review | Tagged , , | Leave a comment

Vienna’s Sacher Torte and a Window into Culinary Memory

Mmm. Sacher Torte
My own sachertore experience was not at the Hotel Sacher, but it was equally memorable.
I did not eat a sachertorte at Vienna’s Hotel Sacher where it was invented (see my previous post). It was not a sign of protest, but of convenience.  And it was equally as memorable.  After taking a tour of Schönbrunn Palace, walking the grounds in search of the Palm House, we were beckoned by a little Tea Garden, tucked away, along the path to the zoo.  We decided after scaling the hill (and quite a hill it was) for a view over the Palace grounds (and into Vienna), we would reward ourselves here with a sacher torte.
In the outdoor garden restaurant Landtmann’s Parkcafé, the service was the unhurried nonchalance that Vienna cafes are known for.  After we sat, we felt we had done something wrong, for servers puttered about, folding napkins or clearing tea sets off nearby tables.  This gave me extra time to read and re-read the menu, to look at the little pictures of the pastries, and to try to remember how to order sacher torte with whipped cream in German (as if I would fool someone).  Nobody seemed interested in serving us, but it did not matter. All that mattered was that when the server arrived, he could become Gepetto and turn the perfectly pictured sacher torte on the menu magically to life on the table. Continue reading
Share
Posted in Destinations, Essence of Travel | Tagged , , , , | Leave a comment

Sachertorte and Predictable Disappointment

At the original Cafe Sacher

Visitors to Vienna are instructed to try sacher torte, the dry chocolate cake with a thin layer of apricot jam, invented at the Hotel Sacher.

Yet, I have read that tourists are disappointed in the sachertorte at the Hotel Sacher.  Why is this?  We want something to be more epic in its original setting.  We want angel choirs and rainbows.  We want flavor explosions and mouth orgasms.  We want it to resemble nothing before, causing our brain to whir into motion while analyzing these new and exciting flavors.  Continue reading

Share
Posted in Destinations, Essence of Travel | Tagged , , , , | Leave a comment

The Royal Palms of Vienna

Palm trees make me happy.

I am a palm tree savant.  Show me a landscape, and I will find the palm tree before you even realized that one was there.  So it is difficult for me to pass up a palm house.

In the 1700’s, palms were an exotic plant, carried by European explorers from tropical lands back to Europe, where they built greenhouses and cultivated these plants for their own enjoyment.  I like to think of them as 19th century tiki bars where Jimmy Buffett’s royal ancestors would sit with their mango iced teas and Mai Tais in their velvet regal housecoats.  As a native of Illinois, where white oaks outnumber palms (surprised?), I can understand the need for a palm house. Continue reading

Share
Posted in Destinations | Tagged , , , , , | 2 Comments

The Viennese Opera I almost saw

Vienna State Opera

It was hard to buy tickets for the opera in Vienna.  Purchasing the tickets was easy, but making the decision to buy tickets was excruciatingly difficult.  I have never been to an opera, and 19th century entertainment sounds unentertaining.

View from the "expensive" standing room only seats

Operas in Vienna are wonderfully accessible.  Each performance at the world-famous Vienna Opera House has several hundred standing room only (SRO) tickets at 3-4 Euros each.  All you need to do is show up early (they go on sale 80 minutes before the show) and wait.  We “splurged” on 4 Euro tickets (instead of the cheap 3 € ones), and our “box” was located behind the seats on the main floor, directly facing the stage.  Awesome!  Plus, we had access to the lobby just like everyone else, so we could take in the beauty (and take some pictures).  Vienna’s Opera House is famous, and, even though much of it was destroyed during World War II bombings, the original lobby is intact and exactly what a historic opera house should look like.

The SRO crowd was about 80% foreign tourists, dressed in everything from t-shirts to sport coats, so we were not out of place. The box itself had velvety rails to lean up against, and by the time the opera started, it was nearly sardine style and starting to get hot, and, quite frankly smelly. Continue reading

Share
Posted in Destinations | Tagged , , , | Leave a comment