Innsbruck: Protected by the Clouds

You can't even tell how high up the mountains go

The view as I ate my ham & pretzels.

My first night in Innsbruck, in the post-downpour hush, I picked up some princess pretzels (like a thinner “Bavarian” pretzel or a more Bavarian thin pretzel) and some local sliced ham and stood by the River Inn (as it was still too wet for a seat).  I watched the river under the bridge, the wet cars and wet people and wet cyclists on the bridge, and the clouds–here and there eclipsing the mountains far above the bridge.

Even with the clouds I could see the nearby foothills (if that is the right word) and felt protected, cradled.

SONY DSC

Looking out from the Stadsturm Tower and wondering how high the mountains really are.

Innsbruck is of the mountains.  It is not “in the mountains” or “near the mountains.”  It is a mountain city as Denver can only wish it was.  In Denver, the mountains are in the distance, never close enough to touch and certainly not on all sides (because east of Denver is western Kansas).

In Innsbruck, each time I turned the corner, it was as if the road ended directly into a mountain.  And each time I turned a corner with a view like this I stopped, each time surprised because this is not the terrain with which I am familiar.  When the clouds rolled in, the tops of the peaks were eclipsed, leaving us in a cloud dome–a petri dish with green mountains growing around up and a gray cotton lid.

I don’t know what it would be like to live here, but on this day I felt cradled, sheltered, not enclosed or trapped.  And I wanted to curl up nestled between the peaks.

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Beer Garden in the Rain

Postcards in the Beer Garden

Postcards in the Beer Garden

First night in Innsbruck.  It’s started raining again.  But I’m sheltered safely in the beer garden under an umbrella, not planning to leave soon.  My feet, pants, and umbrella are already wet so it’s not in an effort to stay dry.  Simply, inertia is a powerful force (especially after a half liter of Augustiner beer in a beer garden in Innsbruck).

I have my kindle, my postcards, and a beer. Plus there’s nowhere to hurry to anyway.  It will be light until 10:00pm.  Netherlands and Chile are playing in the World Cup, which would be more meaningful if any of the following were true:

1) I was from Netherlands
2) I was from Chile
3) I watched soccer
4) The inside bar was non-smoking

The server came over to take my order, so I will have another (a smaller one this time).  I’m sure he has my best interest at heart.  Don’t all servers have our best interest at heart?

 

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Welcome to Innsbruck: So Wet You Can’t Get Any Wetter

Summer Evening Rain in Innsbruck

Summer Evening Rain in Innsbruck

I walked through the rain in Innsbruck.  Jeans soaked to my upper calves.  Not wanting to turn back to my hotel.  Not wanting to miss a moment.  After my reading-while-riding-backward-on-the-train headache wore off, I headed out.  The skies threatened.  I was not deterred by the sprinkles.

It started out lightly, turned into a torrent, with winds from the mountains.  I snuck into an H&M to wait out the storm, not knowing that I had already experienced the worst of it.  When I stepped back out, the city and the mountains were more beautiful than should have been possible in a storm like this.  But they were.  I wanted to walk some more.  To walk forever.

Innsbruck's Hofburg Palace:  Rain

Innsbruck’s Hofburg Palace: Rain

 

Now I’m sitting outdoors, watching more rain, waiting for my feet to magically dry in the chilly summer evening and remembering a line from Four Weddings and a Funeral which I transcribed years before the internet was filled with movie quotes:  “There comes a point at which you’re so wet you can’t get any wetter.”

Thankfully, I brought an umbrella, so I can’t really tell you if that quote is true.  But my feet would agree.

Self Portrait in the Rain

Self Portrait in the Rain

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I Heard My Language On the Train

phone1I heard the American student on the way here.  Three rows back on the train.  I know a lot about him now.  I know his anxieties about graduate school.  I heard the story told by the girl next to him about being hit by a car.  Wasting time telling stories from Brussels to Frankfurt.

 

Frankfurt Train Station

Frankfurt Train Station

I don’t think they were loud, but I think I only heard English.  I also hear Spanish sometimes.  And Swedish, too.  But Flemish, French, German do not catch my ear.  Every other train conversation was a background, a ramble of consonants and syllables seeking meaning.  The announcements came in the same secret code, leaving these two as my only connections to words I understand.

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Train Anxiety

SONY DSCThere is something about waiting for a train in Europe that causes me anxiety.  Will I see it?  Am I at the right platform?  What if it is too short and doesn’t reach all the way down to me?  What if I get on the wrong car, sit in the wrong seat, not knowing the language?  What if someone is in my seat and won’t move?  What if they don’t understand me?

Nervously entering the train station in Bruges

Nervously entering the train station in Bruges

I don’t remember Amtrak being this difficult as a child, but I was a child then, following those older and taller, from Mattoon to Chicago and back.  I find the bus easier.  Only one door from the terminal, where we can all line up.  Only one door to the bus.  Only one driver, who you hand your ticket to.

No matter how many times I have read Rick Steves’ advice for train travel, I find a mystery in the train.  And I never find comfort until the conductor has arrived, punched my ticket, allowed me to stay seated where I am. But then a new anxiety arrives.  What if I fall asleep?  What if I wake up 2 hours past my destination?  And which of these people near me is going to steal my bag?

Lower photo credit: Dr. Angela Durko
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Gaudi and a State of Beige

Mosaic wall in Barcelona's Park Guell

Mosaic wall in Barcelona’s Park Guell made of broken and discarded dishes

Reflections on seeing Antoni Gaudí’s architecture in Barcelona

We leave Gaudí and return to our homes of beige, perhaps with a brightly hued dish in our suitcase to remind us what color should look like.  But we don’t dare be like Gaudí.  We won’t paint our wall with checkerboards or mosaics.  We won’t bathe our living rooms in bright tiles or playful lizards.  We look at this as art–and we will always fear art.  We will fear it is too unusual, bizarre.  We fear that color will make us uncommon, when color is perhaps the most common of all.  Nature doesn’t do beige alone–it must be caressed by something brighter: the sand by the sea, the dirt by the fertile crops.  Even the desert reflects the sky.

Salamander at Park Guell

Salamander at Park Guell

I, on the other hand, want only color, perhaps too much.  I want a Gaudí wall in my garden.  i want a mosaic in my kitchen, the floor a melange of broken dishes, organic forms created from ceramic with past lives, shaped into swirls and curves.  I want to ban all straight lines and live with gently sloping walls, doors with reliefs.  I photograph the buildings, hoping to one day duplicate them, and I promise to add more color.

I want to live here:  Fantastic gingerbread houses by Gaudi at Park Guell, Barcelona

I want to live here: Fantastic gingerbread houses by Gaudi at Park Guell, Barcelona

On the flight home, somewhere above Iceland or Ireland or just some expanse of icy water, I read a line:  “Art ought to help us recover the sensations of life, ought to revivify our understanding of things.”*  I looked out the window at an expanse of cloud and imagined color.

*Anthony Doerr summarizing Viktor Shklovsky’s 1917 essay “Art as Technique” in Conde Nast Traveler
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Traveling as a Mortal

Riga, Latvia. Photo by HBarrison.

Riga, Latvia. Photo by HBarrison.

I had a disturbing thought while driving today, which I am typing up without much additional thought.  Is travel really a reminder of our mortality, as much as a celebration of our living?

We travel to places on our bucket lists.  Consciously or subconsciously.  Bucket lists are designed for experiences, designed for travel.

The book title invites us, perhaps commands us. “1,000 places to see before you die” is the title.  Think about that again.  You are going to die.  Travel and death are not just subconscious.  They are explicitly stated together.  You will travel and you will die.  Just be sure to do them in the proper order.

And the act of traveling itself is a collection of experiences we will never have again.  Continue reading

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The strangest hotel museum. Ever.

There is a century-old hotel on the main street in a Maryland mountain college town called Frostburg.  And once it was grand.  I don’t want to tell you too much.  I want you to walk down the creaky staircase into the basement and see for yourself.  But you are not near Frostburg, so the story begins.

Underground gnome village. Why not.

We stopped into Fallinger’s Hotel Gunter by accident.  On a cross-country road trip, Frostburg, a college town tucked into the Allegany Mountains, seemed an auspicious place to stop for lunch.  While walking off the sea legs that come with cross-country driving, we encountered the little hotel tucked between stores along Main Street in downtown.  I anticipated a lobby with faded glory which I hoped would inspire a story.  The desk clerk with a Caribbean accent greeted us while eating lunch from a styrofoam box on a velvety chair in the lobby.  I told her I liked old hotels.  There is a museum downstairs we may be interested in, she said.  And the adventure began.

Continue reading

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Travel Quote

A big, bearded man … tells me the story of his life, which concludes with the line “I was too stressed out working at the Hilton, so now I just take the ferry back and forth.”

— Gary Shtegngart in Travel & Leisure (March 2012)

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Moved by the Movies

I remember when they rode you in Before Sunrise.

Dear Vienna,

I met you once Before Sunrise. I don’t think you remember me then.  I was just a casual observer.  I saw you, and I wanted to see you again.  So I had to come to see you in person.  We had fun at the ferris wheel in the Prater, playing out a scene from a movie.  I stood by the statue where Ethan Hawke & Julie Delpy watched the sunrise after frolicking overnight through your streets.  We had a great time together.

But you aren’t my first.

You are not my first lust from afar, my first love affair come to life from the silver screen.  Continue reading

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